Home
News
Overview
"SARDINE"
"LITTLE
COD"
"HALIBUT"
"HERRING"
Diesel / Bio D
Accessories
Books
Manual
Photos
Drawings
Porcelain
Warranty
Prices & Payment Options
Contact Us
Links
Forum

 

 

Navigator's Model # NSW4. "HERRING"
biodiesel - diesel stove / natural draft = non electric.

 

 



Specifications:

- Dimensions: 12” Wide x 13” Deep. (31 x 33Cm)

Plus 3" to Right to operate Burner Stem Cleaning Rod.

26-1/4" to top of cook surface with legs.
Legs are 3” High.
28” to top of stainless sea rail.
(71Cm)

- Weight: 55 Lbs. (25 Kg)

Minimum space required is 15" in width by 14" in depth.

This does NOT take into consideration the space required

for shielding surrounding combustibles.



Features:

- Best European Blue Flame Burner Optimized for Biodiesel.

- Optional: Pair of Internal, Sepentine Hot Water Heat Exchangers.

- Heavy cast iron & stainless steel construction (sides & back are SS).

- For Biodiesel or Petrol Diesel. (no solid fuels)

Flowrate: 8 oz./Hr. Low to 24 oz./Hr. High.

(.031 Gal./Hr. to .1875 Gal./Hr.)

- High Temperature Glass Window.

- Stainless Sea Rail.

- Uses 4" Chimney Pipe (10 Cm).

- Approx. Max. Output: 20,000 Btu’s.

- Porcelain Enamel is STANDARD / NO PLAIN IRON

REASON: Biodiesel is "wet" and castings will rust internally if not coated.

- Compatible with our bronze "Drop-In" Burner Modules!

Pricing:

$2470 / With Green, Blue or Gloss Black Porcelain

$2675 / With Tanbark Red/or any other custom color requiring a 2'nd white undercoat.

 



Yes, it's a tall stove which happens as a result of the burner's flame pattern.



 

 

 

CNC machining a mahogany foundry patern used for the stove's exhaust.

The router is used for general pattern work and for our customized foam packing materials.

 

 

Looking good. You might want to or already have considered where to put your gravity fuel tank? It could flank the forward bay window bump out? Only needs to be 2-3 gal. & high enough to have fuel reach the height of the inlet at the stove. Having the tank outside stabilizes the fuel temp as tank temps would slowly climb inside & impact the viscosity of fuel. This would, in effect, be an unintended slow curve upward in terms of increased fuel delivery even though you'd not touched the valve. Usually a better spot anyway to refuel in case you were to inadvertently spill a bit. A/NSW

***

Now, a little something in from one of our "marine users".....

"I probably am "positively biased", because we really like our stove. There was a bit of a learning curve, but I really wanted it to work so I kept at it. It has been so long since the initial set-up that I don't recall the specifics, but I do know that I carefully followed the manual (which I believe was still in development then). I haven't touched the high flow valve since the initial calibration. I think that I would have had just as steep a learning curve with a wood stove.

During our first season, I probably snuffed it when I inserted the core 1 out of 4 times. Now, it's rare that I don't get it successfully started on the first try. My keys to success have been:

1. Be sure that the entire bottom is covered with diesel before first lighting it.
2. Wait a long time before trying to insert the core. A really long time. Don't even try it until there are tiny steady blue fingers around the rim. If the initial fuel loading was insufficient, and it looks like it is going to all burn out before getting those fingers, I'll add just a little more fuel and wait longer.
3. One square of toilet tissue in the bottom of the core.
4. Insert the core very slowly just before the initial fuel load burns itself out. I mean very slowly. Don't rush because you're worried that you might get burned - it's never happened.
5. Be sure that the core seats evenly. Sometimes it is slightly off center when it is initially lowered into position. Fix it right away, because it's soon going to get so hot that re-positioning it is uncomfortable.
6. Keep the glass clean so that it is easier to see the position of the core as it is being inserted.
7. After the core is inserted, I turn the fine adjustment off for just a second, so that I know what position "off" is. Then I turn it until it just barely cracks open - probably only 2-3 degrees. That's all it takes.
8. This results in a blue flame, glowing red core, and just a few tongues of yellow, maybe 2-3 inches above the core.

We have only used diesel, so I have no experience with bio-diesel. I would imagine that the temperature-related changes in viscosity might make bio-diesel more challenging.

Our smoke detector is about 4 feet from the stove. We have never set it off. A little bit of smoke occasionally escapes when removing the lid to insert the core, but it quickly disperses. I think that waiting a long time before inserting the core gets a good draft going and most of the smoke goes up the stack when the lid is removed.

I don't think that we have ever run the stove for more than 2 hours. Usually around 90 minutes, I'm cracking an overhead hatch to let some heat escape. We have granite tiles surrounding the stove. The tiles and the stove continue to radiate heat for quite a while after we have turned it off.

Running the stove definitely dries the boat out. If it was really cold out and I was running the stove for longer periods, I would almost be tempted to put a pan of water on the top to get some humidity back in the air.

We usually just run the stove in the evening, after dinner and before going to bed. We never wake up cold in the night, but we have a nice down comforter. Sometime's I'll also run it for a while in the morning if it's really cold and we're not going to get under way for a while.

In cold weather, the stove is the center of our universe. It's really the key to staying comfortable and enjoying the boat early and late in the season. It looks great, and all of our visitors comment about how much they like it. D.L. "

 

360 566 2418 / marinest@marinestove.com

***



Copyright 2016 NSW, Inc., all rights reserved.